P0113Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input

What it means

The intake-air-temperature sensor's resistance falls as air warms, so a high signal voltage reads as extremely cold — the classic stuck reading is −40°. That's the electrical signature of a broken circuit, not a real temperature. On many engines the IAT sensor lives inside the MAF housing.

Is it safe to drive?

Drive normally — check soon

Very low stakes. The computer substitutes a safe default, so the worst you'll see is slightly rich running and lazier cold-weather starts. Fix it at your convenience — but do fix it, because the stuck default skews fueling a little and keeps the light on, where it could be hiding the next, more serious fault.

Common causes

Most likely first.

• The sensor connector left unplugged or half-seated — often right after an air-filter change
• A broken or chafed wire in the harness to the sensor
• A failed IAT sensor, or MAF assembly where they're integrated
• Corroded connector pins

What the live data shows

One glance settles it: the intake air temperature PID pinned at −40° — the bottom of its range — while the car sits in a normal garage is a broken circuit, full stop. After the fix, IAT should read close to ambient on a cold engine and climb modestly with underhood heat.

A scanner that reads all 139 standard sensors shows you these readings live. ScanMyCar charts them as you drive, keeps the freeze-frame stored with the code, and pulls codes from every module — free, with any cheap Bluetooth adapter.

Typical fixes

Cheapest first, where honesty allows.

• Reseat the connector — free, and the most common fix
• Repair the wiring if inspection or a gentle tug test finds a break
• Replace the IAT sensor, or the MAF assembly if it's integrated